I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.
What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com
hi ben,
i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray paint
onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess with
acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).
here a few examples.
[image: Inline images 3]
(this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and then
engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)
[image: Inline images 4]
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess
paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)
i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed and
then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with plywood
is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm plywood
to improve stability.
i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
[image: Inline images 5]
and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a
neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice
versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer. 
the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with
white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave
some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.
[image: Inline images 2]
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester < hacman@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk
Looks very cool const. The stains on your last one may be due to using
acetone, as acetone will dissolve perspex - Its commonly used for solvent
welding perspex sheets together!On 23 February 2016 at 17:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi ben,
i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray paint
onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess with
acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).here a few examples.
[image: Inline images 3](this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and then
engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)[image: Inline images 4]
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess
paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed
and then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with
plywood is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm
plywood to improve stability.i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
[image: Inline images 5]and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a
neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice
versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer.the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with
white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave
some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.[image: Inline images 2]
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester < hacman@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk–
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hi bob and ben,
thanks. good point with the acetone. thanks for the tip.
@ben:
i’d try to stay away from MDF as the glue (or other chemicals) in it smells
quite strongly for a very long time when it has been cut. also, the vinyl
sheets for sign making are for my taste to flexible as well.
the 5mm perspex is very solid and great. but if you have connectors which
have to be mounted it may be too think.
constOn 23 February 2016 at 17:28, Bob Clough bob@clough.me wrote:
Looks very cool const. The stains on your last one may be due to using
acetone, as acetone will dissolve perspex - Its commonly used for solvent
welding perspex sheets together!On 23 February 2016 at 17:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi ben,
i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray
paint onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess
with acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).here a few examples.
[image: Inline images 3](this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and
then engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)[image: Inline images 4]
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess
paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed
and then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with
plywood is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm
plywood to improve stability.i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
[image: Inline images 5]and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a
neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice
versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer.the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with
white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave
some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.[image: Inline images 2]
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester < hacman@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card
sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk–
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk
It would be great to see a bit of a guide on the wiki, with some of your
designs - they look fantastic.
ChrisOn 23 Feb 2016 17:11, “Constantin Popp” constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi ben,
i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray paint
onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess with
acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).here a few examples.
[image: Inline images 3](this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and then
engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)[image: Inline images 4]
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess
paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed
and then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with
plywood is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm
plywood to improve stability.i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
[image: Inline images 5]and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a
neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice
versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer.the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with
white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave
some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.[image: Inline images 2]
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester < hacman@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
“Hackspace Manchester” group.
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk–
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I don’t know if you currently are, but DO NOT cut vinyl on the laser
cutter, it releases chlorine which eats metal and prevents people from
breathing!On 24 February 2016 at 11:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi bob and ben,
thanks. good point with the acetone. thanks for the tip.
@ben:
i’d try to stay away from MDF as the glue (or other chemicals) in it
smells quite strongly for a very long time when it has been cut. also, the
vinyl sheets for sign making are for my taste to flexible as well.the 5mm perspex is very solid and great. but if you have connectors which
have to be mounted it may be too think.
constOn 23 February 2016 at 17:28, Bob Clough bob@clough.me wrote:
Looks very cool const. The stains on your last one may be due to using
acetone, as acetone will dissolve perspex - Its commonly used for solvent
welding perspex sheets together!On 23 February 2016 at 17:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi ben,
i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray
paint onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess
with acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).here a few examples.
[image: Inline images 3](this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and
then engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)[image: Inline images 4]
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess
paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed
and then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with
plywood is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm
plywood to improve stability.i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
[image: Inline images 5]and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a
neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice
versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer.the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with
white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave
some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.[image: Inline images 2]
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester < hacman@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card
sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
Groups “Hackspace Manchester” group.
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking.
Dok11, Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk–
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk–
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hi bob,
i wasn’t cutting vinyl - i’m not even sure if they are made out of vinyl. i
mean those thingies which come in two colours.
yes, will do a wiki-entry - probably in two weeks or so.
constOn 24 February 2016 at 11:57, Bob Clough bob@clough.me wrote:
I don’t know if you currently are, but DO NOT cut vinyl on the laser
cutter, it releases chlorine which eats metal and prevents people from
breathing!On 24 February 2016 at 11:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi bob and ben,
thanks. good point with the acetone. thanks for the tip.
@ben:
i’d try to stay away from MDF as the glue (or other chemicals) in it
smells quite strongly for a very long time when it has been cut. also, the
vinyl sheets for sign making are for my taste to flexible as well.the 5mm perspex is very solid and great. but if you have connectors which
have to be mounted it may be too think.
constOn 23 February 2016 at 17:28, Bob Clough bob@clough.me wrote:
Looks very cool const. The stains on your last one may be due to using
acetone, as acetone will dissolve perspex - Its commonly used for solvent
welding perspex sheets together!On 23 February 2016 at 17:10, Constantin Popp <constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi ben,
i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray
paint onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess
with acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).here a few examples.
[image: Inline images 3](this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and
then engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)[image: Inline images 4]
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess
paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed
and then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with
plywood is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm
plywood to improve stability.i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
[image: Inline images 5]and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a
neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice
versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer.the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with
white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave
some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.[image: Inline images 2]
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester < hacman@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card
sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking.
Dok11, Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk–
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk–
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk
Laser laminate.
tamarisk
p: 07949 151 100
e: tamarisk@tamarisk.it
t: @notquitehere> On 24 Feb 2016, at 12:30, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi bob,
i wasn’t cutting vinyl - i’m not even sure if they are made out of vinyl. i mean those thingies which come in two colours.
yes, will do a wiki-entry - probably in two weeks or so.
constOn 24 February 2016 at 11:57, Bob Clough bob@clough.me wrote:
I don’t know if you currently are, but DO NOT cut vinyl on the laser cutter, it releases chlorine which eats metal and prevents people from breathing!On 24 February 2016 at 11:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi bob and ben,thanks. good point with the acetone. thanks for the tip.
@ben:
i’d try to stay away from MDF as the glue (or other chemicals) in it smells quite strongly for a very long time when it has been cut. also, the vinyl sheets for sign making are for my taste to flexible as well.the 5mm perspex is very solid and great. but if you have connectors which have to be mounted it may be too think.
constOn 23 February 2016 at 17:28, Bob Clough bob@clough.me wrote:
Looks very cool const. The stains on your last one may be due to using acetone, as acetone will dissolve perspex - Its commonly used for solvent welding perspex sheets together!On 23 February 2016 at 17:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi ben,i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray paint onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess with acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).
here a few examples.
<12183925_539073786243655_625592785816005977_o (1).jpg>(this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and then engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)
<DSC01109.jpg>
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed and then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with plywood is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm plywood to improve stability.
i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
<DSC00313.jpg>and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer.
the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.
<DSC01332.JPG>
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester hacman@googlegroups.com wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11, Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11, Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
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[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11, Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
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Thanks for that const.
I unfortunately left out the useful bit of the question which is “for
prototyping”.
I am after something which would be cheap to cut, and close-ish in depth to
a real 3mm piece of laser material. This is why I suggested card in the
first
place as 250gsm 50pack is around £6.On 23 February 2016 at 17:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi ben,
i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray paint
onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess with
acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).here a few examples.
[image: Inline images 3](this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and then
engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)[image: Inline images 4]
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess
paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed
and then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with
plywood is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm
plywood to improve stability.i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
[image: Inline images 5]and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a
neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice
versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer.the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with
white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave
some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.[image: Inline images 2]
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester < hacman@googlegroups.com> wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
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::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11,
Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.uk–
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Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com
Mount board from Fred Aldous. It’s sturdy and it lasers well.
tamarisk
p: 07949 151 100
e: tamarisk@tamarisk.it
t: @notquitehere> On 24 Feb 2016, at 13:07, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester hacman@googlegroups.com wrote:
Thanks for that const.
I unfortunately left out the useful bit of the question which is “for prototyping”.
I am after something which would be cheap to cut, and close-ish in depth to
a real 3mm piece of laser material. This is why I suggested card in the first
place as 250gsm 50pack is around £6.On 23 February 2016 at 17:10, Constantin Popp constantin.popp@gmail.com wrote:
hi ben,
i tend to use 3mm perspex. what looks good is if one puts some spray paint onto the engraving, letting it dry and then rubbing off the excess with acetone / IPA (depending on the paint).
here a few examples.
<12183925_539073786243655_625592785816005977_o (1).jpg>(this one is clear acrylic with the back side first spray painted and then engraved. the painted side is very sensitive)
<DSC01109.jpg>
(white perspex with red spray paint sprayed into the engraving. excess paint had been removed after the paint had been dried)i’ve seen people using plywood, too. the plywood could be first sprayed and then the laser removes the paint through engraving. the thing with plywood is that the 3 mm is quite soft. so i would use 2 sheets or use 5 mm plywood to improve stability.
i’ve used a combination of plywood and frosted acrylic for good effect.
<DSC00313.jpg>and, beware of colours. i’d recommend choosing only one colour and a neutral one. like white for all solids + red for highlights (or vice versa). it’s easier to get it look good without being a designer.
the frosted black - it’s called midnight black - is really pretty with white highlights, in my opinion. rubbing off the excess paint does leave some minor stains though which are virtually impossible to get rid of.
<DSC01332.JPG>
hope this helps,
constOn 23 February 2016 at 16:00, ‘Ben Dooks’ via Hackspace Manchester hacman@googlegroups.com wrote:
I’m doing some panel designs, and was considering getting some card sheets
for use with either the laser or craft.What sort of weights/sizes/colours would people recommend getting?
–
Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups “Hackspace Manchester” group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to hacman+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.
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For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.–
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
[next concert: “Narragonien”, with Raisa Kröger + Florian Bücking. Dok11, Berlin, 4th-6th March 2016]
soundcloud.com/constantinpopp
www.constantinpopp.de
www.knobtronix.co.ukYou received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups “Hackspace Manchester” group.
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Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com–
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