Now I have the WS2811 LEDs working I’m going to order some more. If
anyone else wants some let me know and I’ll see if it is worth doing a
group order - I’m in for 100 to get it started, anyone else?
I was also thinking about how best to mount these up. I talked to Ben
about doing a 1 LED breakout board, a 2 x 2 one and a 3 x 3 one so you
can have a big block of LEDs if you want a lot of light - that’s more or
less what the high-power LED lights do. I anyone else interested in
clubbing together to get some boards made?
I’ve already killed one LED by keeping the iron on it too long - the
plastic melts as quite a low temperature, so I think the toaster oven
might not be suitable. Ben suggested using a hotplate instead, these
seem fairly cheap to get hold of, not sure if we’d need to PID it up or not.
Alan Burlison
I’ll pass the details over for the guy in china that I ordered them
from, for 1000 we could get them cheaper, with the same delivery
costs.
I don’t need any more at the moment though.On 13 December 2012 13:46, Alan Burlison alan.burlison@gmail.com wrote:
Now I have the WS2811 LEDs working I’m going to order some more. If anyone
else wants some let me know and I’ll see if it is worth doing a group order
- I’m in for 100 to get it started, anyone else?
I was also thinking about how best to mount these up. I talked to Ben about
doing a 1 LED breakout board, a 2 x 2 one and a 3 x 3 one so you can have a
big block of LEDs if you want a lot of light - that’s more or less what the
high-power LED lights do. I anyone else interested in clubbing together to
get some boards made?
I’ve already killed one LED by keeping the iron on it too long - the plastic
melts as quite a low temperature, so I think the toaster oven might not be
suitable. Ben suggested using a hotplate instead, these seem fairly cheap to
get hold of, not sure if we’d need to PID it up or not.
–
Alan Burlison
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You often see a piece of kapton put on top of plastic things that are
being reflowed in an oven, that might be a good option to try.
Tom’s Oven controller can be used with a hotplate too afaik, just need
to remove / bypass the thermostat and fix a thermocouple in there
somewhere.On 13 December 2012 13:46, Alan Burlison alan.burlison@gmail.com wrote:
Now I have the WS2811 LEDs working I’m going to order some more. If anyone
else wants some let me know and I’ll see if it is worth doing a group order
- I’m in for 100 to get it started, anyone else?
I was also thinking about how best to mount these up. I talked to Ben about
doing a 1 LED breakout board, a 2 x 2 one and a 3 x 3 one so you can have a
big block of LEDs if you want a lot of light - that’s more or less what the
high-power LED lights do. I anyone else interested in clubbing together to
get some boards made?
I’ve already killed one LED by keeping the iron on it too long - the plastic
melts as quite a low temperature, so I think the toaster oven might not be
suitable. Ben suggested using a hotplate instead, these seem fairly cheap to
get hold of, not sure if we’d need to PID it up or not.
–
Alan Burlison
–
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You often see a piece of kapton put on top of plastic things that are
being reflowed in an oven, that might be a good option to try.
That’s an option too, I have a dead LED we can sacrifice 
Tom’s Oven controller can be used with a hotplate too afaik, just need
to remove / bypass the thermostat and fix a thermocouple in there
somewhere.
Did he get the PID stuff working? Last time I heard it was a bit fierce
on the heat front
Alan Burlison
its pretty much working, just needs tuning. All the PID settings are
accessable through the menu, as well as the temperature and time settings.
If the PID still doesnt work well having the same settings throughout the
cycle, I can change the code a bit to have different PID details for each
of the sections?
In terms of hooking up other devices, as long as theres a way to turn it to
constantly on, and it has an IEC socket on it, you can plug anything into
it as long as it doesnt draw more than 10A. (theres a 10A fuse in there.
dunno if the cable i’ve used will handle more or not really…)
TomOn 13 December 2012 14:34, Alan Burlison alan.burlison@gmail.com wrote:
On 13/12/2012 14:20, Bob Clough wrote:
You often see a piece of kapton put on top of plastic things that are
being reflowed in an oven, that might be a good option to try.
That’s an option too, I have a dead LED we can sacrifice
Tom’s Oven controller can be used with a hotplate too afaik, just need
to remove / bypass the thermostat and fix a thermocouple in there
somewhere.
Did he get the PID stuff working? Last time I heard it was a bit fierce on
the heat front
–
Alan Burlison
–
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group/hacman?hl=en-GB http://groups.google.com/group/hacman?hl=en-GB.
Thomas C. Bloor Mob: (+44) 07905646892
tom.bloor@googlemail.com or tom@bloorfamily.net
Homepage: http://tom.bloorfamily.net
I am going to be doing a seed order before Christmas, and would like some
input on what people would like to see.
I am considering a 5x5 board with as many LED/decoupling/connector options
on it so you can cut to size as people see fit.On 13 December 2012 13:46, Alan Burlison alan.burlison@gmail.com wrote:
Now I have the WS2811 LEDs working I’m going to order some more. If anyone
else wants some let me know and I’ll see if it is worth doing a group order
- I’m in for 100 to get it started, anyone else?
I was also thinking about how best to mount these up. I talked to Ben
about doing a 1 LED breakout board, a 2 x 2 one and a 3 x 3 one so you can
have a big block of LEDs if you want a lot of light - that’s more or less
what the high-power LED lights do. I anyone else interested in clubbing
together to get some boards made?
I’ve already killed one LED by keeping the iron on it too long - the
plastic melts as quite a low temperature, so I think the toaster oven might
not be suitable. Ben suggested using a hotplate instead, these seem fairly
cheap to get hold of, not sure if we’d need to PID it up or not.
–
Alan Burlison
–
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Ben Dooks, http://www.fluff.org/ben/ bjdooks@googlemail.com
