Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD sorted,
ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any obvious mistakes
/ cockups?
the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at detecting
distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also only cost
£1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.
-Bob
theremenov1.sch (176 KB)
Oh, and yes, the LEDs are meant to be driven at a ridiculously high current!
they’ll only be on for milliseconds at a time.On 1 February 2011 23:05, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD sorted,
ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any obvious mistakes
/ cockups?the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at detecting
distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also only cost
£1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
i would still put bigger resistors in for your LED’s or at least opt for
GaN based LEDs(blue, white etc) which have a higher forward voltage (and
also happen to be brighter for a given current) the little wires in your
led wont like having 100’s of mA going through them even for msOn Tue, 2011-02-01 at 23:07 +0000, Bob Clough wrote:
Oh, and yes, the LEDs are meant to be driven at a ridiculously high
current! they’ll only be on for milliseconds at a time.On 1 February 2011 23:05, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
Hey Guys,Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD sorted, ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any obvious mistakes / cockups? the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at detecting distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also only cost £1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this. -Bob–
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This may be useful, although looks like you have the most of it, only
thing that i have spotted different is for some reason these guys have a
capacitor on the reset line and there regulator has one cap on the
input, one on the output.
hope its usefull for you
simonOn Tue, 2011-02-01 at 23:05 +0000, Bob Clough wrote:
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD
sorted, ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any
obvious mistakes / cockups?the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at
detecting distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they
also only cost £1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
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I was going to mention the regulator feedback caps. There also should be a
smoothing cap too
This may be useful, although looks like you have the most of it, only
thing that i have spotted different is for some reason these guys have a
capacitor on the reset line and there regulator has one cap on the
input, one on the output.hope its usefull for you
simon
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD
sorted, ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any
obvious mistakes / cockups?the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at
detecting distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they
also only cost £1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
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Bob,
Can you send me the original Eagle SCR file that you did for the theremino.
It will save me having to redraw it from scratch.
Regards
AlexOn Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 11:05 PM, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD sorted,
ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any obvious mistakes
/ cockups?the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at detecting
distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also only cost
£1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
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It’s attached to the first email in this thread
Bob,
Can you send me the original Eagle SCR file that you did for the
theremino. It will save me having to redraw it from scratch.Regards
Alex
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD sorted,
ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any obvious mistakes
/ cockups?the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at
detecting distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also
only cost £1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
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Hi Gents,
Been working on the Theremino Stuff for music hack day. I’ve never played
with this circuit before so I admit I have just layout it out to try and get
the best connections possible. I’m not sure as have not done anything with
this circuit but…Do the IR Leds need to be next to the sensors? If so I
will move them and probably have to start again!! Anyway, have a look at
the layout and let me know what you think. Anyone know how to get
dimensions out of eagle? I can’t seem to manage it. Can someone also add
the hacman logo and stuff to the board…
Hope everyone is having a good weekend…
AlexOn Thu, Feb 3, 2011 at 8:23 AM, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
It’s attached to the first email in this thread
Sent from my phone, with an onscreen keyboard, please excuse any typos!
On 2 Feb 2011 23:14, “Alexander Lang” alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com wrote:
Bob,
Can you send me the original Eagle SCR file that you did for the
theremino. It will save me having to redraw it from scratch.Regards
Alex
On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 11:05 PM, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD
sorted, ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any obvious
mistakes / cockups?the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at
detecting distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also
only cost £1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
–
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Theremino.rar (277 KB)
The IR receivers should really be at opposite ends of the board, each paired
with an LED. Theres one set for volume, one for pitch, they’ll be angled
slightly outwards, allowing one hand to be used for each.On 5 February 2011 19:50, Alexander Lang alexanderlang1980@googlemail.comwrote:
Hi Gents,
Been working on the Theremino Stuff for music hack day. I’ve never played
with this circuit before so I admit I have just layout it out to try and get
the best connections possible. I’m not sure as have not done anything with
this circuit but…Do the IR Leds need to be next to the sensors? If so I
will move them and probably have to start again!! Anyway, have a look at
the layout and let me know what you think. Anyone know how to get
dimensions out of eagle? I can’t seem to manage it. Can someone also add
the hacman logo and stuff to the board…Hope everyone is having a good weekend…
Alex
On Thu, Feb 3, 2011 at 8:23 AM, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
It’s attached to the first email in this thread
Sent from my phone, with an onscreen keyboard, please excuse any typos!
On 2 Feb 2011 23:14, “Alexander Lang” alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com wrote:
Bob,
Can you send me the original Eagle SCR file that you did for the
theremino. It will save me having to redraw it from scratch.Regards
Alex
On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 11:05 PM, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD
sorted, ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any obvious
mistakes / cockups?the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at
detecting distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also
only cost £1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
–
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Ok. Ill redo the layout itll have to be at home. Not got a laptop with me
at the moment. I have got some Lm386 Audio i c s though
The IR receivers should really be at opposite ends of the board, each
paired
with an LED. Theres one set for volume, one for pitch, they’ll be angled
slightly outwards, allowing one hand to be used for each.
Hi Gents,
Been working on the Theremino Stuff for music hack day. I’ve never played
with this circuit before so I admit I have just layout it out to try and
getthe best connections possible. I’m not sure as have not done anything
withthis circuit but…Do the IR Leds need to be next to the sensors? If so
Iwill move them and probably have to start again!! Anyway, have a look at
the layout and let me know what you think. Anyone know how to get
dimensions out of eagle? I can’t seem to manage it. Can someone also add
the hacman logo and stuff to the board…Hope everyone is having a good weekend…
Alex
It’s attached to the first email in this thread
Sent from my phone, with an onscreen keyboard, please excuse any typos!
Bob,
Can you send me the original Eagle SCR file that you did for the
theremino. It will save me having to redraw it from scratch.Regards
Alex
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD
sorted, ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any
obviousmistakes / cockups?
the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at
detecting distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also
only cost £1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
–
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Hey Bob,
I have redone the Theremino layout. I preferred the first version. I
managed to get it much more single sided and it seemed more elegant!
Anyhow…check this layout. The LEDS and sensors are next to each other
and each LED Sensor pairs are on opposite sides of the PCB as requested. I
have added a smoothing capacitor and added gain to the LM386 section. I
haven’t checked the rest of the circuit so what you gave me had better be
correct!
We are going to have to lay this out on a double sided board. I can’t get
the connections to route happily without doing it this way. If you can see
a better way of doing things let me know. If you want, add the HACMan logo
to the PCB. I haven’t worked out how to do that yet! I also haven’t
checked the dimensions so that would be worth knowing.
I think it should be fairly easy to solder up and construct. The components
are all fairly well spread out etc.
Let me know what you think. I am aiming to get one of these boards made up
on saturday. Oh the joys of having your own board making facilities! I
will bring my dremel and drill bits etc. I might try and make a UV light
box for you as well!
Regards
AlexOn Wed, Feb 9, 2011 at 5:12 PM, Alexander Lang < alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com> wrote:
Ok. Ill redo the layout itll have to be at home. Not got a laptop with me
at the moment. I have got some Lm386 Audio i c s though
On 9 Feb 2011 13:37, “Bob Clough” parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:The IR receivers should really be at opposite ends of the board, each
paired
with an LED. Theres one set for volume, one for pitch, they’ll be angled
slightly outwards, allowing one hand to be used for each.On 5 February 2011 19:50, Alexander Lang alexanderlang1980@googlemail.comwrote:
Hi Gents,
Been working on the Theremino Stuff for music hack day. I’ve never
playedwith this circuit before so I admit I have just layout it out to try and
getthe best connections possible. I’m not sure as have not done anything
withthis circuit but…Do the IR Leds need to be next to the sensors? If so
Iwill move them and probably have to start again!! Anyway, have a look at
the layout and let me know what you think. Anyone know how to get
dimensions out of eagle? I can’t seem to manage it. Can someone also add
the hacman logo and stuff to the board…Hope everyone is having a good weekend…
Alex
On Thu, Feb 3, 2011 at 8:23 AM, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
It’s attached to the first email in this thread
Sent from my phone, with an onscreen keyboard, please excuse any typos!
On 2 Feb 2011 23:14, “Alexander Lang” < alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com> wrote:
Bob,
Can you send me the original Eagle SCR file that you did for the
theremino. It will save me having to redraw it from scratch.Regards
Alex
On Tue, Feb 1, 2011 at 11:05 PM, Bob Clough parag0n@ivixor.net wrote:
Hey Guys,
Been working on getting the circuit for the theremino kit for MHD
sorted, ive attached the eagle file and a png. can anyone see any
obviousmistakes / cockups?
the tsl262 sensors are IR - voltage convertors, and very good at
detecting distance reliably and linearly between 10cm and 1m, they also
only cost £1.50 in quantity, so are perfect for this.-Bob
–
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Theremino 2nd layout.rar (343 KB)
Bob, Please have a look at the new layout…I spent ages on it last
night!!! Its a bit bigger than yours but all of the top layer connections
can be wires so its an elegant fix…no vias required.
AlexOn Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 1:50 AM, Alexander Lang < alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com> wrote:
Ok…redone the theremino again!!
See Attached
Alex
Looks good, I’d make a few changes though:
-BobOn 21 February 2011 13:01, Alexander Lang alexanderlang1980@googlemail.comwrote:
Bob, Please have a look at the new layout…I spent ages on it last
night!!! Its a bit bigger than yours but all of the top layer connections
can be wires so its an elegant fix…no vias required.Alex
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 1:50 AM, Alexander Lang < alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com> wrote:
Ok…redone the theremino again!!
See Attached
Alex
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Ok…I’ll get it done tonight when I get home. We can get a board made tomorrow night. I want to see it work, I might even buy a kit for myself on the day!
Alex
----- Reply message -----From: “Bob Clough” parag0n@ivixor.net
To: hacman@googlegroups.com
Subject: [HACMan] Theremino
Date: Tue, Feb 22, 2011 13:39
Looks good, I’d make a few changes though:
-Bob
Ok…I’ll get it done tonight when I get home. We can get a board made tomorrow night. I want to see it work, I might even buy a kit for myself on the day!
Alex
----- Reply message -----From: “Bob Clough” parag0n@ivixor.net
To: hacman@googlegroups.com
Subject: [HACMan] Theremino
Date: Tue, Feb 22, 2011 13:39
Looks good, I’d make a few changes though:
-Bob
OK Gents,
Version 4 Theremino Board Complete:
Changes from Previous Version -
Removed Large Pot and replaced with a trim pot.
Removed a couple of superfluous wire links.
Changed all pads to something reasonable for “hobbyist construction
techniques”
Moved LED and IR sensor to be in line with each other
Removed all 90 degree links as apparently it reduces chances of etching
problems occurring??? It won’t hurt.
Hope it works!! I really need more practice at PCB layout but am improving
with eagle!!!
I’m off to sleep,
Regards
AlexOn Tue, Feb 22, 2011 at 5:15 PM, Alexander Lang < alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com> wrote:
Ok…I’ll get it done tonight when I get home. We can get a board made
tomorrow night. I want to see it work, I might even buy a kit for myself on
the day!Alex
Sent from my HTC
----- Reply message -----
From: “Bob Clough” parag0n@ivixor.net
To: hacman@googlegroups.com
Subject: [HACMan] Theremino
Date: Tue, Feb 22, 2011 13:39Looks good, I’d make a few changes though:
- pads on the lm386 need to be bigger (they look like the round ones we had
on the other board, which got destroyed by the drill)- change the bigass pot to be a trimpot.
sily enough (top right would be an example, center pin of the trimpot).- I’d rather the IR transmitter and receiver were side by side, with the
pads in a row, so they can both be bent to a 45 or 90 degree angle to use
the device diagonally or outwards.-Bob
On 21 February 2011 13:01, Alexander Lang < alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com> wrote:
Bob, Please have a look at the new layout…I spent ages on it last
night!!! Its a bit bigger than yours but all of the top layer connections
can be wires so its an elegant fix…no vias required.Alex
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 1:50 AM, Alexander Lang < alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com> wrote:
Ok…redone the theremino again!!
See Attached
Alex
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hobby PCB.dru (1.91 KB)
Theremino 4th Layout.rar (394 KB)
Just had a quick look at the PCB layout and schematic, it seems your
missing the TX line to the Atmega chip - pin 5 of SV1 to pin 3 of
Atmega.
Also, does the auto reset on the programmer work without a capacitor
between pin 6 of SV1 and the reset on the Atmega? several schematics
i’ve seen include one. Unless thats just for when the reset button is
included?
Thomas C. Bloor Mob: (+44) 07905646892
tom.bloor@googlemail.com or tom@bloorfamily.net
Homepage: http://tom.bloorfamily.net
Tom,
I laid out the circuit given to me by Bob, I will look at the schematic and
verify what you are alluding to. However it would appear you are correct
about the pin 5 of the SV1 connector not being connected to pin 3 of the
ATmega. Must have somehow missed that one although it didn’t come up in a
DRC check, Gutted. I will sort it tonight at HACMan. It won’t take too
long. I have no experience with the ATmega so I am flying blind on the need
for a cap on the reset line. If it does need a cap then space will have to
be found or we will have to bodge one in somehow.
I must admit this has not been the easiest of circuits to lay out single
sided, the amount of wire links and weird ways of routing have been painful!
I have spent ages trying to get it right. Oh the joys of PCB layout.
Thats it…next time we will get the circuits laid out on a 4 layer PCB
and use a professional board manufacturer! No need for wire links, weird
routing or drilling…there is just one problem - Cost!!
AlexOn Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 12:21 PM, Thomas Bloor tom.bloor@googlemail.comwrote:
Just had a quick look at the PCB layout and schematic, it seems your
missing the TX line to the Atmega chip - pin 5 of SV1 to pin 3 of
Atmega.Also, does the auto reset on the programmer work without a capacitor
between pin 6 of SV1 and the reset on the Atmega? several schematics
i’ve seen include one. Unless thats just for when the reset button is
included?–
Thomas C. Bloor Mob: (+44) 07905646892
tom.bloor@googlemail.com or tom@bloorfamily.net
Homepage: http://tom.bloorfamily.net–
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Ok…I have tried modding the PCB layout. That particular connection you
highlighted is not coming up at all. I also noticed a GND connection was
missing in another part of the circuit. Eagle is playing up on me here and
there are two connections which have not been made and are not showing up.
Suggestions people? I have checked the airwires thing with the ratsnest
command and they are not hidden. I don’t know what is going on.
AlexOn Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 12:49 PM, Alexander Lang < alexanderlang1980@googlemail.com> wrote:
Tom,
I laid out the circuit given to me by Bob, I will look at the schematic and
verify what you are alluding to. However it would appear you are correct
about the pin 5 of the SV1 connector not being connected to pin 3 of the
ATmega. Must have somehow missed that one although it didn’t come up in a
DRC check, Gutted. I will sort it tonight at HACMan. It won’t take too
long. I have no experience with the ATmega so I am flying blind on the need
for a cap on the reset line. If it does need a cap then space will have to
be found or we will have to bodge one in somehow.I must admit this has not been the easiest of circuits to lay out single
sided, the amount of wire links and weird ways of routing have been painful!
I have spent ages trying to get it right. Oh the joys of PCB layout.
Thats it…next time we will get the circuits laid out on a 4 layer PCB
and use a professional board manufacturer! No need for wire links, weird
routing or drilling…there is just one problem - Cost!!Alex
On Wed, Feb 23, 2011 at 12:21 PM, Thomas Bloor tom.bloor@googlemail.comwrote:
Just had a quick look at the PCB layout and schematic, it seems your
missing the TX line to the Atmega chip - pin 5 of SV1 to pin 3 of
Atmega.Also, does the auto reset on the programmer work without a capacitor
between pin 6 of SV1 and the reset on the Atmega? several schematics
i’ve seen include one. Unless thats just for when the reset button is
included?–
Thomas C. Bloor Mob: (+44) 07905646892
tom.bloor@googlemail.com or tom@bloorfamily.net
Homepage: http://tom.bloorfamily.net–
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